In the grand scheme of New York food, ramen has become as entangled in the city’s gastro makeup as dirty-water dogs, pushcart pretzels and bodega bacon-egg-and-cheese sandwiches. And while many city ramen-yas stick to the broth-fat-noodles tradition, notable noodle joints across New York are quick to subvert those time-honored tenets, twisting those traditions into something entirely its own—we’re talking deli-inspired bowls loaded with pastrami or Thai-style with green curry. It’s not traditional, it’s not purist, but it’s undoubtedly New York.

Top photo : Terry Robinson (CC BY-SA 2.0)

MU RAMEN

Deviating from your usual pork-based bowls, the flagship ramen at this Long Island City noodle insta-hit from husband-and-wife team Joshua and Heidy Smookler is built on a broth of oxtail and bone marrow, giving it a standout beefiness bolstered by melting cubes of brisket. Paired with shredded cabbage and half-sour pickles, the house specialty toes Jewish deli-novelty without succumbing to kitsch.

Link: MU RAMEN
Photo : Paul Wagtouicz

IVAN RAMEN

After astonishing ramen lovers by being the first American to open not one, but two acclaimed ramen-yas in Tokyo, cult noodler Ivan Ramen—a Jewish baby boomer from Long Island—made a grand homecoming with this Lower East Side restaurant, a collage of Orkin’s all-American roots and Japanophilic fancy. There, Orkin preaches the gospel of the slurp with his exquisitely delicate double-soup shio, silky dashi-chicken stock swimming with thin rye-flour noodles and tender pork belly.

Link: IVAN RAMEN
Photo : Paul Wagtouicz

DASSARA

In New York City, “Brooklyn” has become a trend in and of itself, a fact that can be seen in the beloved, Brooklyn-inspired deli ramen at Josh Kaplan and Justin DeSpirito’s Carroll Gardens noodle house. The bowl is a literal melting pot of influence, with a longer-simmered chicken broth bobbing with bubbe-style matzo balls and chashu made from borough neighbor Mile End’s smoked beef.

Link: DASSARA
Photo : Paul Wagtouicz

YUJI RAMEN

After years of issuing out pristine fish to top New York restaurants like Per Se and Marea as a seafood salesman, Yuji Haraguchi made a name for himself in the city’s ramen circle with his take on Tokyo’s mazemen, a dry "mixed" version served without broth. At a perma ramen pop-up within his restaurant Okonomi, Haraguchi doles out strikingly maverick renditions such as bacon-and-egg mazemen and one tossed with raw salmon, Camembert cheese and Sichuan peppercorns.

Link: Okonomi
Photo : Jakob N. Layman

Slurped your way through the five boroughs? Waistline be damned – it’s time to head over to Japan for more noodles, soup concoctions and mouthwatering toppings than you could possibly imagine.

Gogyo

It might look more like a chic izakaya than a ramen joint, but this Nishi-Azabu shop, operated by the company behind the hugely successful Ippudo chain, serves up some seriously impressive product. Their signature dish is the kogashi ('burned') ramen, which features a thick soy sauce- or miso-based soup topped with charred fat, making for a flavourful, smoky experience.

Link: Gogyo

Soranoiro

Defying the conventional concept of the greasy delicacy that is ramen, the healthy varieties at Kojimachi’s Soranoiro have proven wildly popular with Tokyoites over the past few years. Don’t forget to try the carrot puree-based soup, served with their vegan ramen.

Link: Soranoiro

Food stalls of Hakata

Fukuoka’s Hakata is the home of tonkotsu ramen, and the best place to try the local delicacy is at one of the food stalls that pop up all over the city’s business centre when the day turns to night. The riverside Nakasu area offers a particularly magical experience.

Link: #37 Fill up on street food