An incorrectly prepared fugu (pufferfish) meal can kill you, while one served by a knowledgeable chef will take you only as far as culinary heaven. Shimonoseki on the southwestern tip of Honshu accounts for 80 percent of the nation’s fugu catch, and the Karato fish market, opened in 1933, attracts crowds of chefs, traders and curious visitors from as early as 4am. Non-professionals are allowed to buy fish too, and the market’s canteen offers a nice breakfast. Restaurants around the market range from the Imperial Family’s official fugu provider to sushi joints – sit at the counter and watch the chef cut the fish into slices so thin you can see through them, a technique used to counter the springy, fibrous texture. When it comes to fugu sashimi, presentation is important, and Nihonryori Tsukasa's chrysanthemum flower arrangement on an Imari porcelain plate makes for a perfect example.